Alta Via 2

10 Days of trekking in the Dolomites. While researching this trip, I found a lack of English-language beta free-of-charge on the internet. There are some great guide books (Ciccerone's AV2 is great), but I wanted to offer a free resource for self-guided trekkers for research when considering the AV2. 

Day 1: Brixen -> Rifugio Genova

16km/10m, 1000m climb, 650m descent

Most AV2 treks start with the walk up the Plose ski resort and spending the night in the Plose hut, and day 2 usually ends in the Rifugio Genova. On this schedule, Day 1 involves 4 hours of hiking through trails on a popular ski & summer (mountain biking) resort. 


However, for hikers on a tight schedule, Days 1 & 2 can be condensed. By taking the cable car up Plose ski resort and bypassing the Plose hut, eager trekkers can bypass the more crowded, and frankly boring, first leg and punch straight into the heart of the Dolomites. 

Tullen & Kleiner Tullen. The AV2 descend into the valley, and wraps around the left side of the massif.

The view from Plose resort. 

Day 1 starts up the Plose gondola, outside the town of Mellaun, and up the hill from the city of Bressanone / Brixen. From the top, the trail contours around the resort, and drops into the valley before the Tullen massif. The trail is well established, but navigation can be tricky between the network of summer trails the span the Plose ski resort. The trek through Plose is complemented by the spectacular views of the Tellun massif and Sass de Putia peak. From the valley, the trail follows the road for about a kilometer, then winds up to Forcella del Putia. If you're hungry, there's places to grab food along the trail in the ski resort, but once the trail hits the road, there's nowhere to eat until Rifugio Genova. The last few kilometers traverse through high farmlands and alpine tundra behind the Tellun massif down to Rifugio Genova / Schluterhutte. 

Trekking in late September had it's advantages - cooler temps during the day, few crowds at the huts, and dramatic cloud cover. 

Sass de Putia / Pietlerkofel shrouded in smoke.

After the climb to Forcella del Putia, the trail levels out for the final kilometers to the hut. 

Puez Odle Nature Park

As a launchpad for several climbing and trekking objectives, Rifugio Genova tends to be busy, even near the end of it's summer season. Calling head and reserving a bed is highly recommended (calling is waaaay more reliable than email when it comes to contacting huts). If you don't want to be tied to a fixed schedule, at least call to see if they have space a few hours ahead of your arrival. Rifugio Genova has clean drinking water (from the sink), power, & wifi. They did not accept credit cards and asked for passports / travel documents (lodging laws in Italy can be tricky, and hotels/huts are sometimes required to register their guests stays' with the government) so be sure to bring both cash & travel documents. 

Rifugio Genova can be reached here: +39 0472 670072

Rifugio Genova - home for the night

Furchetta & Sass Rigais taken from the deck of the Rifugio Genova. 

Sunset showers - a common occurance hiking through the Dolomites in late September. It never rain during daytime, but often started shortly after arrival in the day's hut. 


Day 2: Rifugio Genova -> Passo Gardena

20km / 12mi, 800m ascent, 1000m descent

Today is the first of many 'full-value' days in the Dolomites. Long distances, beautiful views, big climbs, a via ferrata, and even roaming livestock. From Rif Genova, the trail heads South, contouring along grassy mountains for several kilometers until the big climb at Forcella Roa. The initial trail out of the hut stays on the East faces of several mountains, and grants trekkers an amazing view of the sunrise over Monte Cavallo and the valleys to the East. 

The first kilometers of this stage provide a world-class venue for sunrise viewing

Watching the sun rise

Eastward at dawn

After the grassy hills, at about kilometer 7, the trail turns from dirt to rock, as it traverse boulder / scree fields, and zig-zags to the pass at Forcella Roa. From here, the trail splits. The left braid contours around below some cliffs and leads to a fun via ferrata. The right braid descend a bit into the bowl behind Forella Roa, then climbs out the east side. Both braids meet up to traverse the rim of Val Gardena. Trekkers should be cautious about their water consumption through this portion, as there is no where to fill up (a few mountain streams, but they may be dry depending on recent weather) between Rif Genova and Rif Puez (13km). 

Looking back from Forcella Roa - From Rif Genova, the trail traces South along the ridge until the big climb up to Forcella Roa

Traversing the Val Gardena rim (apologies, I don't know the real name of the valley, only that it looks down on the town / ski resort Val Gardena) is one of the most spectacular sections of the AV2. After climbing out of Forcella Roa, and either via the via ferrata or not, the trails meet and head Southeast atop an enormous cliff-laden valley. Above the chasm, you can look Southwest to the mouth of the valley and see the ski area of town / Val Gardena nestled below Sasslungo Langkofel massif. The trail continues atop the valley until it reaches the Rifugio Puez, at the far end of the valley. Most AV2 trekkers end their day here, a respectable 13km from Rif Genova. If you elect to continue to Passo Gardena, grab some food & water here, as there is not much else until you reach Passo Gardena, a further 7km.

In the mouth of the valley sits the town of Val Gardena below the Sasslungo Langkofel. The trail 'horseshoes' around the rim of this valley. 

Rifugio Puez sits at far end of the valley, looking back down at the mouth. Atop the cliffs, the surface is covered by a carpet of green grass, and often grazing sheep, cows, horses and other livestock can be found up here. From the Rif Puez, the trail continues along the rim of the valley, crossing to the other side, until it it reaches a plateau. From his plateau, the trail continues to the last big climb of the day, up to Forcella Ciampei. From Forcella Ciampei, the trail drops out of Val Gardena. One last, small push uphill puts the trail through Step Crespeina, and into a maze of imposing limestone pillars. The final stretch zig-zags downhill to and through a ski resort, until the road at Passo Gardena. 


Passo Gardena holds three options for accommodations, the hut / rifugio "Passo Gardena" or "Rifugio Frara" is the most popular with AV2 trekkers, but there is also a hotel "Hotel Cir", and another hut "Rifugio Jimmy" nearby. Passo Gardena has potable water from the sink, free showers, wifi, single rooms & a dormitory. 

Passo Gardena / Rifugio Frara / Grodner Joch: +39 0471 795225

Day 3: Passo Gardena -> Passo Fedaia

20km / 12mi, 1250m ascent, 1300m descent

This is another full value, long distance, grand vista, AV2 day. Looking South from Passo Gradena, an imposing rock wall dominates the skyline. Today's trail cuts through the massif. The trail climbs and traverse over and through this impassible group of mountain. Bring your camera to breakfast at Passo Gardena, as the windows face East, and provide yet another spectacular sunrise over the valley.  From Passo Gardena, the trail climbs slightly, but quickly begins traversing eastward along the valley wall, skirting below the towering rock cliffs. The trail turns from dirt/grass to scree/boulder field, and climbs up a relief in the rock wall. Continue up the chasm until it turns to via ferrata (a mandatory, but very easy climb). Once the route tops out, it meanders down to the Rifugio al Pisciadu, perched high atop the rocky plateau. 

Sunrise from Passo Gardena

The AV2 crosses through this massif. Rifugio Frara sits just below. 

From Rifugio al Pisciadu, the trail continues Southeast, contouring beneath another monolith and above an alpine lake. There's another via ferrata through this section, though it's short and not very difficult or exposed. Continue climbing, but be mindful of route finding: there are lots of trails up here connecting the various peaks, and the boulder fields can render trails difficult to see and follow. Topo maps tend to be very helpful during these sections, as terrain features served as more reliable guides than trails. 

After the first climb and via ferrata, just above Rifugio al Pisciadu. 

Continue climbing, and the trail will begin to work its way back South. Once it plateaus, the magnificent Pitz Boe will reveal itself. At 3,152m, it's one of the highest peaks in the Dolomites. Follow the plateau towards the Ptiz Boe, as the trail links to the top of another monolithic mountain group. The trail winds its way through the rocks to Rifugio de Boe, at the base of the Pitz Boe. There is an option here to summit the Pitz Boe, via a non-technical trail to the top. Otherwise, the trail skirts the base of the cliffed peak, to the Rifugio Forcella Pordoi, nested in a 'notch' between peaks. From here, there's a choice between a steep 600m descent, or taking a cable car down to Passo Pordoi. The Rif Boe, Rif Forcella Pordoi, and the cable car station atop Sass Pordoi are all great places to grab lunch, though Rif Boe and Rif Forcella Pordoi are a little more spartan in their accommodations.  

WC at the Rif Forcella Pordoi, with the Pitz Boe in the background

The descent trail from Rif Forcella Pordoi to Passo Pordoi

Layer cake on the Pitz Boe

By either descent route, the trail continues at Passo Pordoi. There's several huts, restaurants, and bars here. Any of these huts, or the ones listed above, are great places to stop or spend the night for those on a longer, more relaxed itinerary. For those trying to make Passo Fedaia, 6-7km remains. Climb out of Passo Pordoi, and along the ski resort. The trail cuts across the south-side of the ski resort, granting the first view of the imposing Marmolada peak and glacier.  

Gliders are a common sight form the Pordoi massif

Castles in the clouds

The view from the deck at the Sass Pordoi cable car

Looking back on the Pordoi Massif, with Pitz Boe on the right, and the Sass Pordoi cable car on the left

Sassolungo and Sassopiatto

The trail continues along the south side of the ski resort, heading eastward. After a few kilometers, Lago di Fedaia reveals itself beneath the enormous Marmolada. Continue eastward until just above the lake. The trail then descends sharply to Passo Fedaia and Lago di Fedaia. From here, there are two lodging options: Rifugio Casteglioni on the north side of the damn, and Hotel Rifugio Dolomia, on the south side of the damn, directly beneath the Marmolada. 

Rifugio Casteglioni's accomodations are a bit more basic than Hotel Rifugio Dolomia's. During my trek, it was the same price for a private room & shower at Hotel Rifugio Dolomia, as a dormitory bed with communal WC and shower facilities at Casteglioni. 

Rifugio Casteglioni: +39 0462 601681

Hotel Rifugio Dolomia: +39 0462 601221

Contouring around the ski resort, with the Marmolada to the south. 

Lago di Fedaia beneath the Marmolada


Day 4: Passo Fedaia -> Rifugio Contrin

16 km / 9 mi OR 12 km / 7.5 mi

The standard AV2 does not follow this route, or pass through the Rifugio Contrin. This is a variation of the AV2 that involves a highly technical day crossing the Marmolada, or a safer, less spectacular day to Rifugio Contrin. For more information on the 'standard' AV2 route, consult the Cicerone guide book. 

For this variation, there are two options: skirting around the base of the Marmolada massif, or going up and over it. For those intending to cross the Marmolada, this stage involves a long, steep via ferrata, lots of climbing, and a glacier crossing. It is not possible to complete this variation without some form of glacier gear.

From the south side of the dam, the trail picks up beneath the Fedaia-Pian Fiacconi cable car. As of September 2018, the cable car was inoperable. Check with the nearby huts/restaurants to see if it's running again, it can save you about 2,000 vertical feet of climbing. Follow the trail to the top station of the cable car. From here, follow the trail west as it weaves through boulder fields and glacial moraines. Keep a sharp eye on navigation through this section, as the terrain can easily become indistinguishable, and myriad of official and unofficial trails braid and weave through the moraine. The trail continues west until it contours below the wall of a cliff, bends more southwest, and starts climbing up a moraine valley. 

At the far end of the moraine valley, Forcella Marmolada, the lone 'notch' in the ridge should be visible above a patch of ice. The trail continues up the valley, towards the ice. Eventually, the trail crosses the ice, and becomes a via ferrata where the cliffs meet the ice, on the climber's right side of the icefield. Climb the via ferrata until the top of Forcella Marmolada. 

Some quick notes about the icefield: it's a detached part of the greater Marmolada glacier. In September, it was 'dry' (meaning no snow cover, only bare glacier ice), and I saw no significant visible cracks or crevasses near the trail. The ice was dirty, covered in about a centimeter of dirt and debris in places. The dirty glacier was not safe to cross or climb; the debris acted like ball bearings on the icy slope. I didn't see many cracks or holes in the glacier, but the glacier is about 20-30 degrees in steepness, and the trail cuts across it. A slip would send you rocketing down towards the boulder field on the moraine several hundred feet below. Depending on your glacier experiences (and risk acceptance), a pair of lightweight crampons should be sufficient to cross the ice (or even yak-traks), but I did see parties in full rope teams crossing the ice. 

From the top of the Forcella Marmolada, trekkers can follow the 606 trail and begin the descent to Rifugio Contrin, or climb higher on the via ferrata, to the top of Punta Penia, a local highpoint in the Marmolada massif. This via ferrata is steep, difficult, exposed, and known to hold snow and ice late into the season, but hold a spectacular view and a mountain hut at the top. Once at the top, trekkers will have retrace their steps and descend back to Forcella Marmolada, where they can take the 606 to Rifugio Contrin. From Forcella Marmolada, the 606 trail zig-zags down to Rifugio Contrin. 

I tried to find a way over to Forcella Marmolada without crossing the glacier; I brought a harness but no ropes or crampons. I spent hours scrambling up and down the rock faces on climber's right of the glacier, but found no safe passage. Each route I tried ended in a sheer cliff. This was exceptionally frustrating, as I climbed above and around the glacier, and I could see the 606 trail and Rifugio Contrin (several hundred or thousand feet) below me, with no safe way to them. I found no way to access the via ferrata or Forcella Marmolada without crossing the ice. I did find a single knifeblade hammered into a crack a few hundred feet above the Forcella Marmolada. From the knifeblade, it was a straight shot down (down climbing was not an option) to the pass & trail, avoiding the ice. It may be possible, for parties armed with a rope and some trad/alpine gear, to climb around the glacier, and rappel down to the trail. However, the knifeblade was old and rusty, and it looked like multiple rappels would be needed to reach the trail. 

The trail winds through the moraine, and wraps around the underside of the big rock wall. 

The icefield. The via ferrata and Forcella Marmolada are at the 'notch' on the right side. 

There's a third option: a much safer, albeit, less spectacular, route around the west side of the Marmolada to Rifugio Contrin. From Passo Fedaia, head to the south side of the dam. From the south side of the dam, a trail descends westward into the valley towards the town of Penia. Continue along this trail until Penia is reached. At the town, there's a network of trails splitting off into the various surrounding valley, one of which heads up to Rifugio Contrin. It's well marked & well established, and route finding should not be an issue once on the right trail. It's roughly 2 hours to Penia from Passo Fedaia, and roughly 2.5 hours from Penia to Rifugio Contrin. 

After a long days spent trying to find a safe way over the Marmolada, I retreated and took this path to the Rifugio Contrin. 

Rifugio Contrin: +39 0462 601101

Trail friend on the way to Rifugio Contrin

Trail friend on the way to Rifugio Contrin

Cliffed out on the backside of the Marmolada. Forcella Marmolada and the 606 trail are just off frame to the left.

Shelter from the storm at Rifugio Contrin. The last photo before my camera died - bring your charger. iPhone photos only from this point on. 


Day 5: Rifugio Contrin -> Passo di Valles

15 km / 9.3 mi, 667m ascent, 1312m descent

A nice cruiser day before heading into the final stretch. Regardless of which route you took to cross the Marmolada, all trails lead to Rifugio Contrin. From here, the trail meets up with the 'standard' AV2 a few kilometers out from the Rifugio. Follow the trail east from the Rifugio, climbing above treeline and into the alpine. The trail continues gradually climbing, and veers south. Again, be mindful of route finding amongst the alpine and hard to see trails. Within a few kilometers of climbing, the trail reaches today's highpoint, looking down on San Pellegrino and Rifugio Fuciade. Continue down the steep scree field, and descend until you reach the Rifugio Fuciade. This Rifugio is well established with amenities and luxuries, and is a popular stop for day hikers coming from San Pellegrino. Follow the road for a few kilometers southwest, descending gradually until you reach San Pellegrino. Though it's a ski resort in the winter, there's not much going on in San Pellegrino, aside from a rifugio / restaurant, a few lodges / hotels, and empty chairlift. This is a good spot to stop for lunch, nearly half-way to Passo di Valles. 

The descent to Rifugio Fuciade

Rifugio Fuciade

Looking back from the top of San Pellegrino resort.

Continue following the trail up the San Pelligrino ski resort. The trail can be a little hard to pick up at first, as it cuts through pastures and grazing cow fields. If you're lucky, the cable car will be open, and you can get a ride to the top of the resort, saving yourself a few thousand vertical feet of climbing. If not, switchback through the resort, cutting across winter trails. Navigation is pretty straightforward through this section, as trails and topography are easy to follow. After a few hours crossing the resort, descend gradually to the Passo di Valles. Get a good night's rest, and get ready for one of the burliest day of the AV2 tomorrow. 

Passo di Valles: +39 0437 599136


Day 6: Passo di Valles -> Rifugio Pedrotti

17-20 km / 10-12 mi, 1,350m ascent, 840 descent (guidebooks list the distance at 17km, but my gps said I'd done 20km at the end of this day)

This AV stage is not for the faint of heart, or, more specifically, not for those with a fear of exposure. From the hut, the trail (the 751) begins through grassland, and meanders up to a mountain ridge, traversing east-southeast for a few kilometers. Through this initial grassland, the trail gains elevation quickly (or rather, the valley falls away rapidly), leaving the trail high above the valley floor. This creates dramatic vistas, and exposed trail walking, on both sides of the ridge. 

Once the trail plateaus, it's a short (20-ish minutes) hike to the Rifugio Mulaz. 7 km from the trailhead, the Mulaz is perched above an high alpine valley, and below the spires of Cimon della Palla. It serves as a launching point for several of the more technical climbs and via ferrata in the mountain group. Grab some food and water, as Rif Mulaz is the only place to fuel up until Rif Pedrotti. There is no potable water at the Rifugio, so be sure to have some cash on hand for bottled water at least. 

The trail from Passo di Valles. It climbs to the ridge and follows it to the leftmost edge of the photo. 

One of today's rock massif formations. The trail skirts the north (left side of the photo) side of this group, then veers south to climb to up to the Mulaz

A sea of peaks

The trail approaches another massive limestone rock formation, and begins to contour around the north side of the formation, through alpine vegetation and a boulder field. There are a few sections of very exposed traverses through this section, as we begin to climb to the Mulaz. Many of the exposed sections have via ferrata options, but there are sections of exposed trail with no protection. After about 5 km, the trail heads south and begins climbing up to the Mulaz. Elevation is gained rapidly, and the terrain is mixed - steep, rocky, sometimes slick with water. There are a few more via ferrata sections through here. Though it's not as exposed, the terrain here is more challenging that previously, and climbs rapidly.

From Rifugio Mulaz, continue climbing on the 703 trail to Passo Farangole. The trail is easily visible, zig-zagging upward from the Rifugio Mulaz. After the initial climb, the trail traverses into a hanging boulder field high above another alpine valley. Continue along the trail, and climb to the big, obvious relief between two limestone spires. The actual trail can be hard to follow through this section, use topo maps and terrain features to help guide your climb. Continue climbing to Passo Farangole. As you gain elevation, the slope becomes steeper. Via ferrata equipment can be found bolted to the solid rock wall on the climber's left side of the pass. Once the pass is gained, descend the other side by way of via ferrata.  

One of the via ferrata sections below the Mulaz.

Rifugio Mulaz sits beneath the intimidating Cimon della Pala formation. The 703 climbs just east (right side of the photo, off frame) of these spires.

From Passo Farangole, the trail drops several hundred vertical feet. Follow the via ferrata down until it terminates, than zig-zag through the rock quarry, following the trail as best as possible. Once the loose rocks give way to grass, keep an eye out for the 703 painted on the rocks. Once on the grass, the trail veers south, following the valley. The next few kilometers are some of the most exposed sections of trail in the whole AV. As the trail follows the valley, it remains several hundred feet above the valley floor, skirting above and below cliff faces. Often, the trail is the only flat slope, flanked by 45-degree or steeper slopes. A few sections have via ferrata equipment, but the large majority of the trail is unprotected, with a several hundred foot drop only a few centimeters off the trail. For me, personally, this was one of the most terrifying sections of the trail. 

The Rifugio Mulaz.

The via ferrata descent from Passo Farangole.

The trail follows the valley upward, traversing and losing elevation until the trail drops to the flat slope at the end of the valley. From here, all the exposure has passed, and there only remains a short climb up the rocky hills to the Rifugio Pedrotti. Again, be mindful of trail finding and navigation through here - it's hard to see a definitive trail amongst all the alpine rock through this section, and this section hosts many braids from many different trails. 

Due to its remote, mountaintop location, Rifugio Pedrotti is a bit limited in it comforts. Though it has many beds, a bar, and a restaurant, it lacks wifi, potable water, sit down toilets, and electrical power is only available at certain hours of the day (especially important if you plan to pay by card - the power may not be on when you intend to pay and check out). I didn't see showers during my stay, but I can't say for certain if they have showers or not. But, as with all the huts, the food, beer, ambiance, camaraderie, and views are world class. 

Rifugio Pedrotti: +39 0439 68 308


Day 7: Rifugio Pedrotti -> Rifugio Treviso

12 km / 7.5 mi, 800m ascent, 1,800m descent

Though not as long or terrifying as day 6, the path to Treviso should be approached with respect. It has several exposed sections of trail, some via ferrata, and the longest single descent of the AV. 

There are 2 options to the Rifugio Treviso, the 709 trail and the 702. The 709 cuts a few kilometers out of the route, but the 702 provides a more interesting day trekking with more via ferrata sections. From the 702 begins heading south from the hut, and descending almost immediately down a well marked, well supported trail through a boulder field. After a few kilometers of descent, the trail levels out and begins to traverse along the cliff faces above and below. There are several exposed sections of trail through here, and a few long sections of via ferrata traversing, high above an alpine valley. These first few kilometers make for a very exciting, very scenic section of trail. 


The top of Passo Della Lede is the last highpoint of the day. From here, the trail descends roughly 1,200m in the span of 4-5 km. You can see the valley floor from the top of the pass, the trail drops all the way to the bottom. Rifugio Treviso is on the opposite side of the valley, a few hundred feet of the floor. It's visible through the trees during most of the descent from Passo Della Lede. Keep an eye on foot placement, as sections of the trail are quite steep and loose. Once you reach the trees and valley floor, Rifugio Treviso is a quick hike up the opposite side of the valley. 

The initial descent from Rifugio Pedrotti.

The trail up to Passo di Bali (left side of the frame). 

Following the long via ferratas, the trail begins regaining elevation through a boulder field, climbing to Passo di Bali. From the pass, Rifugio di Pradidali should be visible, just a short descent ahead. Grab some food and water at Pradidali if needed, as there are no more huts until Rifugio Treviso (another 6-7km). From Rifugio Pradidali, continue northwest along the 702 towards Passo della Lede. After a few kilometers of climbing, the trail turns to a fun via ferrata for the last push over the pass. 

The long via ferrata traverse before Rifugio Pradidali.

A closer view of the via ferrata traverse. 

The top of Passo Della Lede is the last highpoint of the day. From here, the trail descends roughly 1,200m in the span of 4-5 km. You can see the valley floor from the top of the pass, the trail drops all the way to the bottom. Rifugio Treviso is on the opposite side of the valley, a few hundred feet of the floor. It's visible through the trees during most of the descent from Passo Della Lede. Keep an eye on foot placement, as sections of the trail are quite steep and loose. Once you reach the trees and valley floor, Rifugio Treviso is a quick hike up the opposite side of the valley. 

Trail friends.

The view towards Rifugio Treviso from Passo della Lede. The trail descends all the way to the bottom of the valley. 

Rifugio Treviso is also remote, and bare in its accommodations. It doesn't have many beds/rooms, so be sure to call ahead and reserve space. The rifugio has coin showers, wifi, power, but no potable water. 

Rifugio Treviso: +30 0439 62311


Day 8: Rifugio Treviso -> Passo Cereda

9 km / 5.5 mi, 700m ascent, 1000m descent

Today's an easier day, with only 9 km of trails and 700m of vert. To make up for the short day, trekkers should take advantage of the several via ferrata routes close by the Rifugio Treviso. The Ferrata de Canalone is a fun, quick, steep via ferrata which can be completed in about an hour, in a loop from the hut (however, it is quite exposed and more technically challenging than previous via ferratas encountered on the AV2. Leave you pack at the hut, and start your day with a lap up the Canalone. 

The view from the top of the Canalone. 

Looking back at the Passo Della Lede and the descent from yesterday. 

Once back at the hut, grab you bag and start heading south along the 718. Continue on the trail as it cuts east and begins ascending to Passo d'Oltro. Once at the top of the Passo, begin descending and contouring south-southwest along the mountain. This is another section of trail with a steep exposed drop immediately off the trail. Continue contouring and traversing, until the trail begins descending suddenly at about treeline. The trail pops out on a road just a few minutes walk from Passo Cereda. There is a second option for today - the 707 trail encircles the base of the mountain group rather than crossing over it. If the weather is bad (rainy, windy, lightening, or anything that would impact balance on the precipitous sections of trail), the alternate route is recommended. It adds a few kilometers, but can be safer. 

The descent from Passo d'Oltro. Weather like this is common here, if it gets too nasty take the 707. 

The final kilometers of the 718 weave through these rock features. 

Passo Cereda is more developed than the prior few huts. It's closer to a hotel than a mountain hut - private rooms & showers, wifi & power, potable water, and even a road and bus stop right outside. After my arrival at Passo Cereda, I took the bus to Fiera di Primero to try to find a camera battery or charger - I was unsuccessful. This is also a good place to withdraw from the trail if needed, as the buses can easily link trekkers to other towns and train stations. 

Passo Cereda: +39 0439 65118


Day 9: Passo Cereda -> Rifugio de Boz

11 km / 7 mi, 1,050m ascent, 700m descent

Today is another classic, spectacular AV2 day. From the Passo Cereda, head southwest across the road following the signs to the 801 trail. After a few minutes of walking, the road gives way to trail. The 801 winds through a forest before climbing, gaining elevation out of treeline, through the alpine and eventually to the base of some massive limestone cliffs. The 801 continues contouring around the northeast side of the cliffs, just below the vertical rock. There are a few sections of via ferrata, and some exposed bits of trail through here. As the trail climbs and the valley below falls away, peaks from the surrounding mountain groups begin to fill the horizon.


Peaking through the forest. 

The AV2 meanders through lower-elevation forests before the climb to Bivacco Feltre Bordo

Continue traversing, contouring, and gaining elevation at the base of the cliffs. After a few kilometers of hiking, the trail reaches a mountain ridgeline. From the ridgeline here, you should be able to see towns at the far end of the valley below. The trail cuts west, and descends towards Bivacco Feltre Bodo. The bivacco is merely a shelter, built to sleep in for extended efforts in the mountains, and does not offer food, water, or bathroom services. During my trip through, however, there were about 40-50 people near the hut, singing and playing music, celebrating Oktoberfest in the mountains. 

Bivacco Feltre Bordo. 

The climb up to the Bivacco offers spectacular views of the surrounding peaks, as it contours beneath limestone cliffs. Note the trail near the bottom-left of the frame. 

Above the clouds. The 801 climbs out of the valley on the left, and descends (briefly) into the valley on the right. 

From the Bivacco, set out southward on a trail that begins descending. Continue along this trail as it traverses, climbs and descends. Eventually, the trail turns and begins to climb to the Col Di Bechi. Once at the Col, the trail traverses high on the valley wall, descending very gently. There is another section of exposed trail and a via ferrata through here. After walking along the valley wall for some time, the trail eventually reaches Passo Mura, a short distance from Rifugio de Boz. From Passo Mura, the trail winds its way back into treeline, and descends until it reaches Rifugio de Boz. 

When I did this leg of the AV2, heavy clouds rolled in, and I was in whiteout for most of the day. I wish I could provide better navigational advice through this day, but I couldn't see much except the trail in front of me. Navigationally, the only difficult part of this day is picking the right trail leaving the Bivacco, several trails converge here. 

Rifugio de Boz is a smaller hut, only equipped with a dormitory. Showers, wifi, power, and potable water are all available here. Rifugio de Boz closes earlier than some of the other huts in the area - I arrived on their last night of operation for the season (September 23rd in 2018), and was the only guest in the hut. Be sure to call ahead to reserve space. 

Rifugio de Boz: +39 0439 644 48


Day 10: Rifugio Boz -> Croce d'Aune

19 km / 12 mi, 800m ascent, 1,300m descent

The home stretch. The last stage of the AV stands as one of the grandest, again filled with long distances, lots of ascents and descents, via ferrata sections, precipitous mountain ridges, and, as always, beautiful mountain views. On a clear day, the blues of the Adriatic are visible from the high points of this stage. When I set out, the wind was ripping through the valley, and the hut keeper warned me (through Italian, broken English, and gesturing) about the narrow ridge crossings. 

Start from the Rifugio Boz, heading south on the 801. The trail wanders through the forest for a kilometer or two before cresting to ridge. The trail turns to follow the ridge west-southwest, and cuts across a broad, steep, south facing mountain slope. Through this section the trail becomes more and more exposed, including a few small protected sections. Follow the face and trail as they approach Sasso di Scarnia, the massive rock peak to the southwest. 

After a few kilometers, the trail meets Sasso di Scarnia, and begins to climb. This is the first of the narrow ridge crossings - three or four narrow (less than a meter in width) sections of trail with exposure / falls of great consequence on either side. Move slowly and carefully through these. During my trek, wind made these sections un-walkable. I had to take my pack off and crawl to avoid being thrown off the ridge by the wind. As the trail climbs, it weaves between the east and northwest faces of Sasso di Scarnia. Prepare for more narrow ridge walks, exposed slopes, and steps chopped into the rock face.

Sasso di Scarnia, the massive rock peak in question. The trail can be seen cutting through the high vegetated portion of the ridge, just shy of the rock summit.

Looking back at the Rifugio Boz from the ridge on Sasso di Scarnia. The trail follows the steep mountain face until meeting up with the rocky peak in the prior photo. 

The 801 levels out shy of summit, and begins descending through a steep, rocky drainage. though less exposed, the terrain here can be more difficult to negotiate. The trail heads more south, cuts across Sasso di Scarnia's east face, and wraps around the mountain's south ridge. From here, the trail eases up on the exposure and technicality. However, long climbs and long kilometers remain. Continue on the 801 as it turns west and begins to climb. 

The trail crests out on a mountainous highland - above treeline, but still vegetated. These plateaus offer spectacular views of the mountains, valleys, towns, and sometimes the ocean to the south. Continue along the 801, crossing several of these alpine-plateaus. Watch your step through here, especially in the rocky sections. I wasn't paying attention and almost stepped on a sunbathing snake. There is an abandoned hut and stable among the alpine meadows, and a road to access them. Once the dirt road is visible, follow it to the Rifugio di Piaz, just behind the next ridge. 

The descent from Sasso di Scarnia. 

After traversing Sasso di Scarnia, the trail climbs to these high-alpine plateaus. 

From the Rifugio di Piaz, 5km of steep descent remain. It's a good spot (and the only spot) to grab food and water before Croce d'Aune. The trail weaves its way down the steep mountain. Hikers can follow the 801 to Croce d'Aune, or the old dirt road (I'm not sure where it leads). After a few kilometers, the trail reaches treeline, and continues down through steep, rooty, and rocky terrain. After a few more kilometers, pop out onto a road in a neighborhood in Croce d'Aune. 

The 801 continues descending all the way to Feltre, another 3-4 hours (according to the trail signs), but the the trail merely descends along the road for a few more kilometers. Most AV2 trekkers arrange for a ride, or take a bus from Croce d'Aune. I arranged an AirBnB in Feltre for my final day, and the host was kind enough to offer a ride from Croce d'Aune. 

High mountain meadows. The abandoned hut and the dirt road a visible near the center of the frame. Rifugio di Piaz is just on the other side of the ridge.

The final descent.

The final descent.

Parting Thoughts

I woke up early on day 11, walked to the train station and out of the Dolomites. I've done harder, I've done longer, I've done scarier, but this trip stuck with me; this was uniquely transformative and enlightening. 

I wanted to offer some guidance for those looking to do a trip like this, offer some more beta. I want people to get out there, to see the things I saw, and to feel the things I felt. This place cannot be truly experience through a computer screen. Neither my pictures, and nor my words can even begin to do it justice. If you're thinking about doing this trip, my biggest piece of advice is just go. Either with partners or without, on a whim or regimentally planned, just make it happen. 

The last journal entry from my trip: "I am leaving the magical place tomorrow, long before I am finished with it; worse yet, I fear, long before it is finished with me." I will be back. 

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